Rarotonga, though the largest of the Cook Islands is still just 32km all the way around (take a look on Google Earth, you can make out the airport and even a few planes parked by the runway). Ara Tapu (Sacred Road) circles the island, taking you past the small villages, shops and homes of the island’s residents. Inland is a wealth of jagged green mountains, saw-tooth hills, mango groves and tall coconut trees. Encircled by a stunning turquoise lagoon, there are no private beaches as such, the whole island is bordered by a continuous stretch of sand, with views I couldn’t have dreamed really existed.
Getting around the island is an adventure. Avarua, the Cook Island’s only town is a hitchhike ride away, and the people here are keen to stop, as long as you sometimes don’t mind riding in the back of the truck with the dog if the seats are all taken inside. Chickens, pigs and goats are also a frequent sight around the island, and the giant wasps and other flying pests help keep me on my toes on an island where sometimes the most rewarding way to spend your time is to do nothing at all.
That said, I spent yesterday riding around the island, dropping in to places of interest, and I now have some shows coming up, which I think will be the first I’ve done in a t-shirt and shorts, as well as spots on the local TV station and newspapers.
Hitchhiking is a great way to hear about the local info, and to meet some of the real characters here on Rarotonga. Standing with my thumb held out, an old man pulled up on his beaten-up motorbike. I showed him my Lonely Planet map of where I wanted to go - he took it from me and turned to page with a section all about him that starts.
‘The longest running (and certainly hardest-working) showman on the island, the venerable Piri Puto III is still zipping up coconut trees , conjuring fire from dry twigs and cooking up island feasts for the entertainment of his guests, despite the fact that he’s now well into his sixties. He’s a well-known (some would say notorious) character on the island, an ex-champion boxer and erstwhile masseur – but these days he’s wisely decided to concentrate on his one-man show’.
A real pleasure to meet an island celebrity, though the bike ride back was pretty hair-raising. Think I’ll stick to my wee bicycle for now.
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